so it doesn't stick out at a weird angle), fix the drywall and then either install a blank face plate, an outlet, or some other useful thing that fits in a 1 gang electrical box. ![]() A metal box weighs substantially more than a plastic interconnect device, weight that, unless the box was mounted to a stud, would probably pull on the wiring. I think I am going to cut the drywall open, install a new box correctly (e.g. These splice kits are basically permanent and irreversible, like those Ideal UF direct bury splices. (I am near Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA).Įdit: thanks for the help and ideas. (In the picture below, I want to remove and cover "Switch 1".) the connections would not be user accessible, unless they knew it was there and wanted to cut into the drywall. Is there any code compliant way for me to permanently connect these wires, and then cover it with drywall? e.g. ![]() Sadly, Tyco may have discontinued the kit they made in response to gyrations in the NEC section 334.40 (B) text that governs the use of these products. But what I would really like to do is remove the electrical box entirely, and replace that area of drywall (yes, I know I'm being absurdly picky). Youll need a NM in-wall splice kit The correct part for this job, as Evil Elf alludes to in their answer, is a made-for-purpose in-wall NM splicer. Additionally, the electrical box for it is very poorly mounted and juts out at an angle.įor now, I have removed the switch and connected the wires with wire nuts. I don't want this switch, I think it's idiotic. This is not a runner switch situation where both switches can turn on the deck lights - this is a wire run in series situation, where both switches have to be on for the deck lights to turn on. another switch on the exterior wall, to turn on/off deck lights. My living room has an electrical box with a switch, which runs to. ![]() Much of the wiring my house is of the DIY variety, done by someone who was plainly insane.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |